Georgia on a Plate

A culinary journey through one of the world’s most generous kitchens

By Shereen Shabnam

Long before Georgia became known for its dramatic mountain landscapes and charming historic towns, it had already perfected one of the world’s most comforting cuisines. Every meal feels like an invitation to linger, every table seems designed for sharing, and every recipe carries generations of tradition.

Having travelled through Tbilisi, Kakheti and Kutaisi in the past and recently, I quickly realised that Georgian food is not about elaborate presentation or culinary theatre. Instead, it celebrates fresh ingredients, family recipes and bold, honest flavours. Whether dining in elegant restaurants or traditional family homes, every meal reflected the country’s remarkable hospitality.

One of my most memorable lunches was at Kneina in Kutaisi, a beautiful old Georgian house run by a welcoming mother-and-son team. The setting was as memorable as the meal itself. Homemade dishes arrived one after another, each prepared with obvious pride and the kind of warmth that only family kitchens seem capable of producing.

Throughout my journey, I found myself constantly surprised by the freshness of every ingredient. Crisp vegetables, fragrant herbs, creamy cheeses and perfectly grilled seafood appeared on almost every table. One afternoon, a beautifully grilled salmon accompanied by seasonal vegetables reminded me that Georgian cuisine is far more diverse than many travellers expect. Another meal featured a delicate pear salad combining crisp fruit, fresh greens, soft cheese and toasted nuts, balancing sweetness with savoury flavours in a wonderfully refreshing way.

Then there were the pastries. Georgia’s bakeries are impossible to resist. The aroma of freshly baked bread drifts through almost every town, tempting visitors to stop “just for one” before inevitably leaving with several. We stopped by the road side and had fresh bread staright out of the oevn with cheese and fresh tomatoes.

Later in the day, we learnt how to bake bread traditionally as well. Traditional Georgian breads deserve special mention. Baked inside deep clay ovens called tone, they emerge with crisp golden crusts and wonderfully chewy centres. Warm from the oven, they require little more than a generous spoonful of local butter or one of Georgia’s many delicious dips.

The country’s most famous creation is undoubtedly khachapuri, Georgia’s beloved cheese-filled bread. Every region prepares it differently. The iconic Adjarian version arrives shaped like a boat, filled with bubbling cheese, butter and a rich egg yolk waiting to be stirred together before tearing off pieces of warm bread. It is indulgent, comforting and absolutely worth every calorie.

Another bakery favourite is lobiani, a soft bread generously filled with seasoned mashed beans. Less internationally known than khachapuri, it offers an equally satisfying taste of Georgian home cooking and makes an ideal snack while exploring cities on foot.

Speaking of dips, they quickly became one of my favourite discoveries. Rich walnut-based spreads feature prominently throughout Georgian cuisine, seasoned with garlic, herbs and gentle spices that add depth without overwhelming the palate. Alongside them came creamy vegetable purées, roasted aubergine preparations and vibrant herb pastes, each perfect for scooping up with freshly baked bread.

Vegetarians will find themselves exceptionally well catered for. Georgia celebrates vegetables rather than treating them as side dishes. Aubergines rolled around fragrant walnut fillings, colourful salads bursting with herbs, roasted peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and seasonal greens appeared throughout my travels, each reflecting the country’s respect for fresh local produce.

One dish I particularly enjoyed was pkhali, an assortment of finely chopped vegetables mixed with walnuts, herbs and aromatic spices. Made using spinach, beetroot or other seasonal vegetables, these colourful appetisers are as beautiful as they are delicious.

Cheese lovers are equally spoiled. Sulguni, Georgia’s famous semi-soft cheese, appears in countless dishes, offering a mild, slightly salty flavour that pairs beautifully with breads, salads and baked dishes. Its versatility explains why it has become one of the country’s culinary icons.

No Georgian table feels complete without a generous assortment of salads. Rather than elaborate compositions, they focus on exceptional produce like ripe tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, fragrant basil, fresh parsley, walnuts and simple dressings that allow every ingredient to shine. Their freshness provides the perfect balance alongside richer baked dishes.

The country’s love affair with sweets is equally impressive. One cannot leave Georgia without encountering churchkhela, the colourful candle-shaped confection hanging outside bakeries and market stalls. Often described as Georgia’s answer to an energy bar, walnuts or hazelnuts are threaded onto strings before being repeatedly dipped into thickened grape juice and left to dry. We also had a class to learn how to make this and it was pretty easy. The result is naturally sweet, satisfyingly chewy and surprisingly addictive.

Many cafés also serve delicate honey cakes layered with cream, rich walnut pastries and flaky sweet pastries filled with fruit preserves or creamy cheeses. We trued this on our last night after dinner and it was perfect to share with friends.

One of the pleasures of travelling through Georgia is discovering regional ingredients, family recipes and seasonal produce  and some familiar dishes vary from one town to the next, encouraging visitors to taste widely and remain curious.

My final evening at the wonderful Georgia House brought everything together. Accompanied by live traditional music, dinner unfolded slowly, with one beautifully prepared dish following another in an atmosphere filled with laughter, conversation and unmistakable Georgian warmth. It was the perfect reminder that here, food is never simply nourishment. It is culture, celebration and hospitality woven together around a shared table.

For More Information on Travelling in Georgia Visit – https://georgia.travel

Rediscovering the Soul of Georgia

Shereen Shabnam

Returning to Georgia is a little like meeting an old friend. The familiar warmth is still there, but every conversation reveals something new. On my first visit, the dramatic journey to Kazbegi, with its soaring mountain landscapes and the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church framed by snow-capped peaks, left an unforgettable impression. This time, however, I deliberately stepped beyond the country’s best-known highlights to discover new regions, hidden experiences and a slower, more authentic side of one of the Caucasus’ most captivating destinations.  

There is something wonderfully effortless about travelling through Georgia. Distances are manageable, the scenery changes dramatically within a few hours, and every stop introduces another chapter in the country’s rich history.

My journey began in Tbilisi, a city I never tire of returning to. Even after previous visits, the Georgian capital always feels fresh. The old town, with its colourful timber balconies, cobbled streets and eclectic architecture, blends centuries of history with an unmistakably youthful energy. Every corner seems to reveal another hidden courtyard, artisan gallery or café filled with locals lingering over coffee.

Dinner on my arrival at Oilibuli Restaurant was the perfect start to Georgian hospitality. Like every meal throughout the journey, it reinforced why Georgian cuisine deserves far more global recognition. From traditional family recipes to contemporary interpretations, every meal became an experience rather than simply another stop on the itinerary.

Leaving Tbilisi behind, we headed east into Kakheti, Georgia’s celebrated wine region. Rolling vineyards stretched towards the Caucasus Mountains while sleepy villages appeared almost untouched by time. Our destination was Sighnaghi, affectionately known as the City of Love.

Small enough to explore on foot, Sighnaghi possesses a romantic charm that few European towns can rival. Its beautifully restored pastel houses, ancient defensive walls and sweeping valley views make it easy to understand why visitors linger here far longer than planned. Walking along the old fortifications, I found myself pausing repeatedly to absorb the endless landscape unfolding below.

Nearby, the remarkable Kvareli tunnel offered one of the most unusual grape curation experiences I have encountered. Originally constructed as a military tunnel during the Soviet era, it has since been transformed into an immense underground drinks cellar where thousands of bottles mature naturally beneath the earth.

The evening concluded at Lopota Lake Resort & Spa, nestled in the peaceful Lopota Valley. Surrounded by vineyards, forests and mountain ridges, the expansive resort feels less like a hotel and more like its own destination. As daylight faded across the lake, it became one of those rare places where silence itself becomes part of the luxury.

The following morning, curiosity led us to the Caucasus’ first outlet village for retail therapy before another afternoon immersed in Georgian hospitality followed by one of the journey’s greatest surprises, Dashbashi Canyon. While Georgia’s mountain scenery often dominates travel brochures, this spectacular volcanic gorge offers an entirely different perspective on the country’s natural diversity. Lush greenery cascades down dramatic cliffs towards waterfalls hidden below, while the now-famous glass sky bridge provides an unforgettable viewpoint suspended high above the canyon floor.

After a night in Tblisi, our adventure then shifted west towards Kutaisi, one of Georgia’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. Along the way, Prometheus Cave revealed a hidden underground world sculpted over millions of years. Towering stalactites, shimmering stalagmites and softly illuminated chambers create an almost surreal landscape that feels closer to fantasy than geology. Walking through the vast caverns is a reminder that some of nature’s greatest masterpieces remain hidden beneath our feet.  

Kutaisi itself quickly became one of my favourite discoveries. We experienced Gemo Fest, the Georgian National Tourism Administration’s travelling gastronomic festival celebrating regional food traditions and local producers. Although I will save the country’s remarkable cuisine for another story, the festival offered a fascinating glimpse into how proudly Georgians preserve their culinary heritage.  

Our boutique hotel, immediately charmed me with its intimate atmosphere, but it was an unexpected resident parked outside that truly caught my attention in form of a beautifully preserved powder-blue 1963 Volga. As someone who has spent decades writing about automobiles, stumbling across this elegant piece of Soviet motoring history was a delightful surprise. It felt entirely at home against Kutaisi’s timeless backdrop.

Returning to Tbilisi, I embraced one of the city’s oldest traditions at Gulo’s Thermal Spa in the historic Abanotubani district. Georgia’s famous sulfur baths have welcomed travellers for centuries, and soaking in the naturally heated mineral waters provided the perfect opportunity to slow down after several days of exploring. The experience felt authentic, restorative and deeply connected to the city’s identity.  

The same day we had lunch at Kneina, a beautifully restored traditional Georgian home where lunch is prepared by an inspiring mother-and-son team. Rather than simply serving guests, they welcome visitors into their family story.

My final full day was spent wandering through the underground market, a treasure trove of antiques, vintage cameras, memorabilia, artwork and handcrafted souvenirs. Every stall seemed to tell another story about Georgia’s complex past, and browsing became an unexpected history lesson as much as a shopping experience.

Later, I wandered once again through Old Tbilisi, where ancient churches stand comfortably alongside synagogues, mosques and colourful wooden balconies overlooking winding streets. It remains one of Europe’s most visually distinctive historic quarters, constantly inviting visitors to slow down and simply observe everyday life unfolding around them.  

My final evening ended at the wonderful Georgia House, where traditional music filled the dining room long into the night. Surrounded by locals and visitors alike, the live performances captured something difficult to describe but impossible to forget. It was the perfect farewell to a country where hospitality simply comes naturally and I hope to return for a road trip experience next, hopefully in a vintage car to add to the experience.

For More Information on Travelling in Georgia Visit – https://georgia.travel