Pearls: Forever Fashionable

People close to me know that as an Islander, I adore pearls and am being constantly bugged by friends about this awesome book I recently added to my library on this oh so cool gem. So imagine my delight when Kristin Mahan of GIA sent me this awesome piece on Pearls prepared by experts from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). I can finally take care of all my pearl collections the right way. Naturally, i couldn’t wait to share this with you and all credit for this goes to GIA including the awesome image of the Tahitian Pearl earings….I hope GIA sends me a cool story next on Fijian pearls……enjoy:

Pearls: Forever Fashionable

A jewelry store’s pearl counter is a fascinating place. These enchanting gems have represented beauty and perfection ever since man discovered them in ancient times. They have been the subject of countless tales of history, beauty, myth and elegance.

The Arabian Gulf was the world’s first source of natural pearls and remained so for centuries. Natural pearls from the Gulf are notable for their transparent and high-lustre nacre. Together with pearls from the Red Sea and the Strait of Manaar, they have been referred to as “oriental pearls” and are highly valued.

Part of a pearl’s appeal is its organic origins: It comes from a living animal, a mollusk. And because pearls are slightly porous, they warm up against the skin as they are worn. The wearer and the gems become one.

The exciting array of pearl choices available today can be overwhelming. When you combine the variety of colors, sizes and shapes with metals and other gemstones in rings, necklaces and earrings, the possible combinations are practically endless.

So before you set off to buy pearl jewelry, you should understand the basics. Are you looking for natural or cultured pearls? Do you know what to look for in terms of size, luster and color? What price range are you interested in? How are some pearls treated to enhance their appearance? These are all good questions to consider before you begin to shop.

A retailer who knows the types of natural and cultured pearls that are available and the factors that determine their value will be an invaluable resource to you as you explore pearls.

In the meantime, here are some basics to get you started.

Pearls are natural or cultured and grow in mollusks that can live in either salt water or fresh water. They are made up of layers of calcium carbonate most popularly in the form of nacre, a natural substance produced by pearl oysters that coats the inside of the animal’s shell. This beautiful, lustrous nacre is the very essence of a pearl.

Natural Saltwater Pearls
Natural pearls are extremely rare. The Arabian Gulf is the most important source for natural pearls – 70-80 percent of all pearls came from there until the 1950s. The island of Bahrain was a centre for trade with northwest India and what is now the modern Middle East. A 4,000-year-old pearl was uncovered in 1989, and excavations at the ancient Bahrain’s Dilmun settlement have confirmed that pearl fishing has been going on for at least 3,000 years.

Natural, saltwater pearls from the Arabian Gulf come from the Pinctada radiata and Pinctada margaritifera. Persian Gulf pearls range in color from white to dark cream and tend to be more yellow than those from the Red Sea and Strait of Manaar, whose characteristic colors are very light yellow, cream and very light pink. The Red Sea also produces some pearls in darker hues that range from intense pink to light to dark violet.

Natural saltwater natural pearls are also found occasionally in Baja California, Venezuela, Myanmar, China, Japan, India, French Polynesia, Australia and Africa – the same regions that have cultured pearl industries.

Salt Water Cultured Pearls
If you ask someone to describe an Akoya pearl, they will most likely describe a white, round, lustrous gem cultured in Japan and China in Pinctada fucata (martensii). Most akoya cultured pearls are white or cream and some have hints of rosé (pink) or green. The akoya oyster is relatively small, so it doesn’t usually produce a cultured pearl larger than 9 mm. Natural pearls from Pinctada fucata (matensii) are extremely rare.

Tahitian cultured pearls have only been on the market since the 1970s and come in colors including eggplant purple, peacock green, metallic gray and grayish blue. The mollusk that produces them (Pinctada margaritifera) is native to French Polynesia and is farmed there and in the Cook Islands, Fiji, Australia and New Zealand.

South Sea cultured pearls come from one of the world’s largest pearl oyster (Pinctada maxima), which produces cultured pearls that can measure 15 mm or larger. They are farmed in Australia, Burma, the Philippines and Indonesia. While South Sea cultured pearls occur in other colors, silver, white and yellow (sometimes referred to as “golden”) are the most common.

Freshwater Cultured Pearls
Cultured pearl farmers in China produce the overwhelming majority of cultured freshwater pearls. These cultured pearls vary widely in color and are generally more affordable than salt water cultured pearls. Sizes are comparable to akoya cultured pearls, with a range between 2 mm and 13 mm, although larger sizes are now available. Fascinating new cultured pearls from fire balls to soufflés have been emerging from China in a dramatic array of colors.

The chief cultured pearl-producing mussel in the U.S. is the “washboard” M. nervosa. Only a small fraction of the total number of freshwater cultured pearls produced come from the U.S.

What to look for when picking out pearls
GIA, the world’s foremost authority on diamonds and gems, created a pearl description system, in order to evaluate the quality of pearls. GIA’s 7 Value Factors include Size, Shape, Color, Luster, Surface, and Nacre. Be sure to ask your sales associate to go through these with you.

Size: As with other gems, a larger pearl (measured in millimeters) is typically more valuable. The larger the pearl, the more rare and costly it tends to be. But fine quality pearls can be small, and low quality pearls can be large, so a pearl’s ultimate worth depends on how it combines the complete mix of value factors.

Shape: While round is the most familiar shape, pearls come in a parade of forms (round, near round, oval, button, drop, semi-baroque, baroque). No matter what its shape, if a pearl is or symmetrical, it will be more valuable than one that’s irregular.

Color: A pearl’s color is a combination of its dominant bodycolor, overtone, the subtle colours that seem to come from within the pearl, and orient, the “play of color” you see when the pearl moves.. Cultured pearls display a broad palette of subtle hues, ranging from warm (yellow, orange and pink) to cool (blue, green and violet).

Luster: The intensity of light reflected from or just below the surface of the pearl, its luster, contributes the most to the beauty of a pearl. The effect is an inner glow from the heart of the gem. A pearl with excellent luster will look bright and shiny, while one with poor luster is dull and far less valuable. Fine akoyas tend to display a bright, mirror-like gloss. Other pearls tend to feature a softer, satiny luster.

Surface: A completely clean pearl is a rare treasure. Since rarity influences value, the prices of such pearls run extremely high. The number, nature, and location of surface characteristics (abrasions, bumps, chips, cracks, etc.) can affect the value of any pearl. Numerous or severe surface irregularities – such as chips or gaps – can threaten the durability of the pearl and cause it to break or peel and considerably lower its quality and value. If a surface characteristic is minor and located near a pearl’s drill hole, where it’s less noticeable, it will detract less from the pearl’s appearance and ultimate value.

Other value factors can minimize the effect of surface characteristics on a pearl’s worth. If the pearl is large and highly lustrous, for example, these pluses can outweigh a slight surface characteristic or two. In fact, excellent luster makes some surface characteristics less noticeable.

Nacre: Nacre is the very essence of the pearl itself and nacre thickness does affect the value. Quality cultured pearls have ample thickness to allow the pearl to display its beauty.

Matching: The uniformity of the appearance of pearls in strands and multi-pearl pieces is called matching.

How to Care for Pearls
Now that you’ve gotten your pearls, you should know a few things about taking care of them.

To retain their beauty, they need a certain amount of moisture, which is why you should avoid storing pearls in an airtight or overly dry environment, such as a bank safety deposit box. The human body conveniently provides just the right amount of moisture. Worn often and properly cared for, pearls can look as good in 50 years as they did the day they left the store.

Pearls are not the most durable of gems. Most everyday items at home and in the office are tougher than pearls, so careless contact can cause damage them over time. Chemicals are the primary threat. Perfume, makeup and hairspray contain ingredients that can eat away the nacre, permanently dulling it. Many cleaning products contain chemicals such as ammonia and chlorine, which can pit gold alloys and quickly damage pearls. Chlorinated swimming pool water is also hazardous. Avoid wearing pearl jewellery when cleaning the house or doing yard work.

The best way to clean your pearls is with a soft damp cloth, ideally after each time you wear them.

Are you ready to learn more?
Consider taking a course to gain a deeper understanding of this fascinating gem. GIA offers an online pearl course in its gemmology eLearning curriculum that you can take from the comfort of your home. It’s a fascinating look at the world of pearls, including their origin, how they get to market, and the GIA 7 Value Factors used to describe their quality. Or, you can choose to take a one-day instructor-led GIA Pearl Grading class where you’ll learn to evaluate the quality of freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian pearls.

To find out more about pearls and GIA’s pearl courses, visit http://www.gia.edu. See image courtesy of GIA.

Spirit of Ecstasy

My friends in Dubai know Rolls Royce is one of my favourite brands not only because I love the car but also because the people behind it are so amazing, awesome and a delight to be with. Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of being a VIP guest of Rolls Royce CEO, Torsten Muller in Abu Dhabi with the Who’s Who of the UAE. It was naturally an incredible experience catching up with various members of the Millionaire Group who I don’t fraternise with enough due to my personal and professional commitments. Although Rolls Royce is not a brand people will normally associate me with as a petrol head chick who hangs out with cars you normally find on the race tracks, recently though I’ve become fond of their cars because the people who work at Rolls Royce or AGMC have become my extended family and are always there to cheer me up with their smiling friendly faces whenever I pop into their showroom or events.

Everyone who has met Torsten will tell you how amazing he is as a person and as a leader and you get inspired by his passion for the Rolls Royce brand. He explained in detail the story behind the Spirit of Ecstasy, the enigmatic symbol of Rolls-Royce when I first met him and I thought about this mysterious woman many times since, often drawing comparisons or being intrigued about her every time I sat in a Rolls Royce since.

Catching up with Torsten briefly again this week reminded me that perhaps I should write something about Spirit of Ecstasy especially as this year she celebrates her centenary. To commemorate the occasion, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars had commissioned world-renowned British photographer Rankin to create a series of one hundred contemporary images, each one inspired by the Spirit of Ecstasy. The pieces were wonderful and I still have pictures of this amongst my favourite photographs so far this year. This week though, also in celebration of the centenary of the Spirit of Ecstasy, the distinctive hood ornament adorning all Rolls-Royce models, a diamond-enrobed commemorative model valued at $250,000 has been created by Mouawad Jewellers. Its stunning to say the least – I put a picture of this online but my BB camera didn’t do any justice to it.

Both Mouawad guys and the gorgeous Alaa of Rolls Royce later sent me their cool versions of the pictures and yes….it looks awesome. My laughing partner who always seems to bring the cheeky side of me to the forefront, Margaret is behind the publicity of Mouawad and she also talked about the Mouawad Centennial version of the Rolls Royce Spirit of Ecstasy hood ornament. The low down on the jewelled ‘Flying Lady’ is that apparently three of Mouawad’s master craftsmen spent 350 hours meticulously arranging and placing 2,300 brilliant cut diamonds onto the symbol (value – a whopping US$250,000/-).

Originally called the “Spirit of Speed”, the “Spirit of Ecstasy” first appeared on the top of a Rolls-Royce in 1911. The inspiration for the Spirit of Ecstasy was commissioned by the 2nd Baron John Scott Montagu of Beaulieu. He asked his friend Charles Sykes to design the mascot, which is thought to be modelled on Eleanor Velasco Thornton who was the secretary and lover of the Baron Montagu. Eleanor had bewitching beauty, intellect and spirit but didn’t have the social status to marry the man with whom she had fallen in love. (sniff). The small statue Sykes created depicted a young woman in fluttering robes with one forefinger placed on her lips.

Eleanor’s relationship with John remained a secret for ages, mainly because both lovers acted with utmost discretion. John was a pioneer of the automobile in England. From 1902 he was editor of the “The Car” and Eleanor was his secretary. Friends of the pair knew of their close relationship but they chose to overlook it. I remember being so sad to find out that Eleanor was not able to enjoy the success of the ‘Spirit of Ecstasy as she lost her life while accompanying Lord Montagu to India. He survived but grieved losing the love of his life. It is such a romantic but sad story…..every time I see the symbol, I feel the strength of the love of this couple and visualise Eleanor as an iconic beauty, with power, grace, mystique and intrigue.

I am sure that while Rolls Royce cars are uber cool, the story of the Spirit of Ecstasy is equally fascinating, mysterious and heart warming.

Up, close and personal with Rami Al Ali

Before I ventured out for my great American adventure, I was invited to have suhoor with the charismatic Rami Al Ali one evening at the Madinat Jumeirah Ramadan tent. Having met Rami socially a number of times and exchanging pleasantries, I never got to know him well except that he was warm, friendly and a delight to be around at VIP events around town.

However, because of the intimate set up of Ramadan tents and being a gracious host that Rami is, we got to know more about each other and what we do a lot better and I am left in awe of this multi talented down to earth designer – hence, I have decided to dedicate an entire blog to him. Partly because he is one of the few local celebrities who likes to know the person in front of him as much as he wants you to know about his work. (I have never told so much about my life to anyone as I have told Rami – partly because he is a good listener who is so comfortable to talk to and partly because he genuinely is interested to know and understand the audience around him)

Rami’s interest in fine fabrics and design led him to the College of Fine Arts in Damascus, Syria, where he studied visual arts, giving him the opportunity to work with some of the region’s leading fashion houses. With his talent, it was not long after when Rami Al Ali Couture entered the fashion arena with a bold collection and uncompromising couture designs.

After a number of inspiring fashion shows around the Gulf, Rami has become a celebrated artist coveted by those who know something about fashion. With royal, celebrity and social muses like Youssra, Ivana Trump, Natasha Bedingfield and Lateefa Nawal, among others, Rami’s designs have stood out from the red carpet of the Adonia Awards to the international stage of Najem Al Khaleej.

As the popularity of Rami Al Ali Couture spread through the region, the need for a ready-to-wear collection was clear. The Rami Al Ali woman needed dresses suitable for dinners and intimate gatherings, and the designer was happy to oblige. The excitement continued and garnered attention from global brands such at Swarovski.  Rami was chosen to be a part of ‘Unbridaled’, a book published by the global Austrian crystal brand, with revered couture veterans Giorgio Armani, Vivian Westwood and John Galliano, among others. The collaboration demonstrated his ability to participate in an international market.

Having recently completed his sixth season at Rome Fashion Week, Rami is sure to continue dazzling us all with his unique style of women’s evening and bridal wear. In Rome, he has built a reputation as a fashion ambassador for the Middle East as his collections are always demure with an Arabic sense of glamour and modesty.

With Rami’s personality and his creative genius, I can’t wait to check out his new collection and would encourage fashionistas of the region to get to know him and his fabulous team….I will warn you though that you will be charmed to the core once you get talking to Rami.

What’s my passion?

Funnily, I have been asked this twice this week. It seems that I have such a zest for life, people think I see excitement and thrill in everything that crosses my path so it’s hard to figure Fijianchick out – as I fight a bout of flu that has made my usual sexy voice go to pot, I thought I would respond in detail on word as I nurse my vocals back to its sexy self.

I agree being hard to get figured may be a pain to some but hey, it does keep peeps on their toes….afterall, my husband has not been able to figure me out for 15 years and possibly reckons I’m the most unusual and mysterious person on the planet. And yet, for some odd reason he still hangs around and wants me in his life in one form or another (mysterious or not)

So what is my passion? I love the tapestry of exotic coral waters and am drawn to the magnificence of the Coral coast’s shoreline of private beaches and waters. (Where else can one go skinny dipping and feel totally at one with nature in total privacy??? ).

I LOVE MUSIC….its my all time passion. Be it bellydancing, salsa or hip hop. My favourite has to be reggae but not too fussy on that end.

I love the inspiring scenery of the highlands, tropical rainforests (just to be able to wake up to it as I did my entire childhood). I like the fact that my home town is probably one of the best kept secrets in the world and that materialism, despite the many 5 star hotels has not touched the lives of the people in my community and we still appreciate nature in its raw form.

Its obvious I love the sea…I was born with the sea at my doorstep and found it had a calming effect on me just looking at it from the windows of my home every morning.  My dad had this bizarre habit of walking around the house every morning pausing every once in a while to take in the view of the forest, the sandhills in the distance, the Sigatoka valley, the town and the sea as he got ready for the day. I guess this had a profound effect on me and my likes and dislikes as well. Afterall, I am a daddy’s girl and since we are both hard core Pisces, we have very similar outlook in life about living simply and finding joy in the simple things in life.

I am extremely passionate about my daughter and her outlook of life and the world at large. Being a clued in kid, she helps me see things from different perspectives and I am not ashamed of the fact that at times, she has had better ideas than I could ever come up with – it makes me proud that she stands up to me as well on things she believes in and the fact that she is highly principled. (I was prepared for this eventuality when she finally came out of me after 8 hours of extremely painful labor born as a Scorpio and a double dragon under the Chinese signs – OUCH!

I was born with a travel gene and very passionate about discovering at least one country a year – I have kept this up for 14 years now and have explored over 97 cities in 22 years. Travelling is in my blood so I guess that is another of my passions.

Food – most of my excitement comes from the joys of discovering, eating, cooking and trying new things. I love cooking and find it therapeutic. After being editor of 3 issues of Menus of the Masters, I took a vow to continue experimenting fine dining with an element of exquisite surprise in taste and presentation. Naturally my favourite restaurant is ‘The Edge” for obvious reasons but as a lover of Japanese food, Nobu, Okku and Zuma feature high on my list of awesome venues.

Another of my big passion is books – there are mini libraries in every corner of every home I have including the bathrooms. Even my house in Spain has books I left behind even though I hardly spend time there and I’m in the process of filtering books through to my Fiji home. Luckily my daughter shares my passion for reading so hopefully she will not hate me for the fact that 85% of her inheritance will be books since Kinukinoya and Magrudy’s take all my salary.

So….the sea, the highlands, my daughter, travelling, food, books and music is my passion – if you were hoping to see your name on the list, perhaps its time to start striving towards impressing Fijianchick. Maybe in a few years time, you could be the next big thing I would be passionate about!